KOVIN

Centre of the Hungarian County

The remains of the Kovin Fortress are located at the spot known as Grad, at the very end of the Danube backwater near the namesake town in Banat. This mediaeval fortification, constructed between the 11th and 12th centuries, stands atop an earlier Roman castrum. Built by the Hungarians, the stronghold protected the kingdom’s border from attacks by the Bulgarians, Byzantines, and later the Ottoman Empire. The strategic importance of Kovin for the defence of Hungary’s southern frontier led to its development as a county centre and a thriving urban and trading settlement frequently mentioned in written sources. Throughout history, the Kovin Fortress was the site of numerous battles before it was finally destroyed following the Treaty of Belgrade in 1739. Today, only a few remnants of the fortress are preserved, and they have been under state protection since 1995 as an immovable cultural property of great importance.

Due to its exceptionally favourable location, Kovin has been inhabited since the Neolithic period. At first, the site of Grad was home to settlements of the Starčevo culture, followed by the Vinča culture. By the second millennium BC, at the beginning of the Bronze Age, the initial defensive fort surrounded by a palisade was built here, providing its inhabitants with security during times of conflict. From then until AD 1739, spanning approximately 3,500 years, the Grad remained a prominent Danubian stronghold, changing rulers multiple times.

During the Roman period, the Danube marked the border of the Roman Empire, and numerous fortifications were constructed along its banks, forming what became known as the Limes. A strong fortress was built in the late 3rd century at the site of Grad to secure the most significant river crossing in the area. That is evidenced by coins bearing the likeness of Roman emperors and bricks stamped with the seal of the 7th Roman Legion (Claudia VII), which had its base at Viminacium.

ABOVE: Map of the site

Тврђава Ковин

ABOVE: Fifteenth-century tower with pilasters

Most researchers agree that this was the site of the fortress known as Contra Margum (Latin: Contra Margum), mentioned in historical records, that stood opposite the castrum Margum (Latin: Margum) on the right bank of the Danube. Written sources also suggest that the fortress was referred to as Castra Augusto Flaviciusa and Constantin, indicating its service to the Emperors Flavius and Constantine.

In the Middle Ages, the Banat region served as a border area of the Kingdom of Hungary—initially against Bulgaria, Byzantium, and Serbia, and later against the Ottoman Empire—resulting in a history intertwined with numerous border conflicts, wars, and campaigns. Consequently, every major settlement was fortified as a castrum or a castellum. During the first period, from the late 10th to the late 13th century, county fortresses emerged as military, economic, and religious centres, typically consisting of large-scale wooden-earth fortifications. Four such fortresses were documented in the Banat area, including Kovin. The first mention of Kovin in written sources dates to 1073, as the fortified town of Castrum Keve. By 1153, it appears as a fortress and the main settlement of Kovin County under the name Quewen. This fortress likely fell during the Mongol invasion, when a fraction of the Mongol forces crossed the Danube at this spot. This assumption is supported by evidence of a significant fire dating to the mid-13th century, after which the settlement was abandoned for an extended period.

Тврђава Ковин

ABOVE: The foundation of the tower is currently under archaeological excavation

The fierce Ottoman-Hungarian conflicts in the Danube region marked the second phase in the development of local military architecture, which spans from the early 14th to the mid-16th century. As firearms became increasingly prevalent in these conflicts, there was a need for new types of fortifications, distinct from those of earlier periods in both form and scale, constructed exclusively from durable materials—brick and stone.

Under Hungarian rule, Kovin was the oldest Serbian settlement in Banat. The Serbs settled in Kovin, received privileges from the Hungarian King Sigismund in 1404, and held the town until 1428. Following the fall of Smederevo in 1439, after an attack by the Sultan’s forces on the Serbian Despotate, Turkish troops launched an assault on border settlements on the Banat side of the Danube. The Ottomans’ destruction of the fortress and nearby town led to the first displacement of Serbs northward within Hungary. For a brief period, the fortress was part of the despotate. According to chronicles, Despot Lazar Đurđević captured Kovin in 1457, but Mihály Szilágyi returned it to Hungarian control in March 1458. The same year, the Turks burnt and looted the royal town of Kovin, prompting King Matthias Corvinus to resettle the Serbs from Kovin near the city of Buda.

Тврђава Ковин

ABOVE: Remains of the western rampart of the fortress

The fortress of Kovin finally fell under Ottoman rule in 1551, after which it gradually lost its significance. During the Ottoman rule, Kovin served as the seat of a bey within the Timișoara Eyalet. In June 1604, the Hungarian imperial army swept through this area, capturing the fortress of Kovin, defended by 800 Turks. A subsequent record from 1626 indicates that the garrison at Kovin consisted of 1,000 cavalrymen and the same number of infantry.

In the 18th century, following the Austro-Turkish War of 1737–1739, the Ottoman Empire expanded its northern borders to the Sava and Danube rivers once again. Under the Treaty of Belgrade, Austria kept the Tamiš Banat, including the town of Kovin, but was required to demolish and evacuate all fortresses along the Danube facing the Ottoman Empire. During this period, the Kovin Fortress was destroyed, leaving only its foundations and a few fragments of stone walls that remain today.

Тврђава Ковин
Тврђава Ковин

ABOVE LEFT: Loess elevation where the fortress was built

ABOVE RIGHT: A park now occupies the plateau of the main defended part of the fortress

The fortress was built on a loess plateau, about 8 to 11 meters above the neighbouring wetlands. It was accessible only via an elevated ridge from the north, which now forms the urban core of the present-day town. The Danube floodplain surrounded the remaining sides of the plateau. Since the stronghold was destroyed in the 18th century, most of our knowledge about its appearance comes from historical sources. In a 1726 drawing, the Italian Count Marsigli, who mapped the entire Habsburg-Ottoman border as an envoy during the Turkish wars, depicted the design of the fortress from its final construction phase. According to the sketch, the fortress was of Gothic style and comprised two sections separated by a defensive ditch. The northern, more spacious part of the stronghold covered a rectangular area measuring 150 by 130 meters, with its longer axis running northwest to southeast. The entrance to this section of the fortress was at the midpoint of the northern wall, and the remains of these walls can still be traced along the western and northern edges of the plateau.

Parts of an 11th–12th-century necropolis, discovered during excavations, were arranged around a masonry structure likely used for sacred purposes. Historical records show that a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary once existed within the fortress, along with a Franciscan monastery established in the mid-14th century. Today, the site is home to the Stari Grad Hotel and a park featuring a model of the Danube’s course. The southern part of the fortress, which is almost destroyed, had an irregular triangular layout. The foundations of a 15th-century tower with pilasters and a section of the wall are all that survive. Currently, archaeological work is underway on this tower, while the previous protective and exploratory investigations of the whole fortress were conducted in 1968, 1986, and 2003.

List of References

Тврђава Ковин
Тврђава Ковин

ABOVE LEFT AND RIGHT: Views of Dunavac, the Danube backwater below the fortress

 

Al-Idrisi’s Records of Kovin from the Twelfth Century

In 1154, Al-Idrisi, an Arab traveller from Sicily, documented three prominent craft and trade centres in the medieval Hungarian region between the Mureș, Tisza, and Danube rivers: Cenad, Kovin, and Timișoara. Regarding Kovin, he noted that, along with the town of Bač, it ranks among the most urban settlements, featuring numerous beautiful buildings, a large population, a thriving trade primarily based on agricultural products, and many hamlets (manors) belonging to the settlement. Idrisi also mentioned that Kovin hosted well-attended fairs and numerous artisan workshops. Archaeological research has confirmed the existence of suburbia close to these fortifications. In Kovin’s case, there is evidence of settlement expansion beyond the city walls, particularly in the latter half of the 12th century.

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