RAVNA STENA

Hajduks’ Hideout

Ravna Stena, also known as the Grad site, is a fortress in the far west of Serbia, near the village of Zaovine on the slopes of Mount Tara. Set in the breathtaking natural surroundings of the National Park, the fortress stands atop a remarkable rocky monolith, beneath which flows the Beli Rzav River. It is assumed to have been built in the Late Antiquity, though it was certainly used during the Middle Ages and later, under Ottoman rule, when it served as a hideout for the hajduks.

ABOVE: Map of the site

Средњовековно утврђење Равна стена у долини Белог Рзава

ABOVE: The rocky monolith formed by the abrasion of the Pannonian Sea

There are no written records of this fortification, but based on small-scale excavations conducted in 2017, it is assumed to have been constructed in the sixth century. These archaeological explorations confirmed the existence of the defensive walls of a late-antique fortified settlement at the Grad site, though only a few fragments of pottery were found. At the base of the fort, near the mediaeval cemetery at a location known as Crkvište, the foundations of a wooden church from the late 17^th to early 18^th centuries were also uncovered. In the Middle Ages, the fortress belonged either to the Kotromanić dynasty (1250–1463) or the Altomanović family, who ruled over these lands. Notably, in the 18^th century, according to Stojan Obradović’s work Načertanije Okruga Užičkog, this area served as a refuge for the legendary Kostreš Harambaša, a famed hajduk, and rebel against Turkish tyranny, celebrated in several folk epic poems.

Above left: The cliffs of Ravna Stena, habitat of the peregrine falcon

Above right: View of the Grad site from the hamlet of Đurići

Ravna Stena is a unique geomorphological rarity and the oldest landform in the Mokra Gora-Rzav syncline. It was shaped by the erosion of the ancient Pannonian Sea, which once stretched across western Serbia, as evidenced by fossilised shells and snails embedded in the rocks. Rising 870 meters with a plateau of about 60 ares, it provided sufficient space for the formation of a fortified settlement. Naturally fortified by sheer cliffs on all sides and offering excellent visibility of the surrounding peaks and the old road to Višegrad, this fortress undoubtedly served as a secure refuge for its inhabitants.

ABOVE: Below the fortress, in the valley of the White Rzav River, a small reservoir lake has formed

Today, the cliffs of Ravna Stena are home to the peregrine falcon, a rare species in the Balkans. The area also hosts the yellow iris, likely an anthropogenic relic planted by mediaeval nobility. There are only two approaches to the fortress: one through a cave on the southwestern side and the other via a carved northern path. Though few visible remains of this ancient stronghold endure, the panoramic view from the summit is well worth the effort to reach it. In spite of the recent improvements to the access route, it remains a challenging trail that is not suited to all visitors.

List of References

ABOVE: View of the surrounding heights

Legend of the Ravna Stena

“Ravna Stijena, an old town, lies on the western side of the Rzav River. Beneath the town, there is a place called Crkvište, where they say the town’s church once stood. The story goes that the lord of this town had gone off to war, leaving behind his wife, who was then seduced by his servant. When the nobleman was about to return to his town, he took the road from Ivica down to Nevoljan but could not pass, as the road was cut off. Hence, the mountain came to be called Nevoljan. He then took another ridge, but the wife had ordered the woods to be cut down and set alight there. Thus, that ridge became known as Opšjek (Opsjek), and it remains bare to this day, as they say it burnt down at that time. The man then took a third ridge, which had again been cut off by the forest. This ridge is now called Polom. The woman, seeing that he had finally broken through, hanged herself from a cornel tree that grew by the town, and the nobleman, upon arriving, set fire to his manor and wandered away into the world.”

(From the book “The Principality of Serbia”, written by Milan Đ. Milićević, published in 1876)